It wasn’t but a few days later when the kids said, “Mom, can we go get another one?” Thinking it was just bad luck, we went ahead and got another one, a red beta fish this time, and the kids named it Sparkey. It wasn’t long before the same thing started. Sparkey became sluggish and I knew he was getting sick. I felt so helpless. So that night after the boys were in bed I got on the internet and started looking for information to help our poor little Sparkey. I read articles and hunted for sick beta fish information but just got bits and pieces here and there.

I had almost given up when I came across a great book by a guy who had been caring for beta fish for 25 years. The best part was I was able to buy it and download it immediately. It was 85 pages but it was full of informative information by someone who really knew about beta fish illnesses, how to diagnose the ailments, and what remedies to use. Better yet, there was a simple step-by-step system to set up an inexpensive and pretty carefree fish tank that is easy for me to take care of and contributes to Sparkey’s overall health.

Anyway, I was able to diagnose our little beta friend as having velvet disease. The next day I knew I could just to go to the local pet store and buy an over-the-counter medicine that would work. That did the trick. Next, we got Sparkey a small easy to maintain aquarium. He is living the good life now, a healthy little guy, swimming happily in his lovely new home. Charlie and Jake are happy too and their friends are fascinated by the antics of one little beta fish. If I knew then what I know now, I could have saved myself a whole lot of time, money, and heartache.

Click here if you want to see the beta fish care book that solved our problems and made me the happy beta fish mom I am today. Come to find out that with the proper beta fish care it is possible for a beta’s lifespan to be as long as 3 to 5 years. That’s a whole lot better than the few weeks we had the first time around.

When it comes to having a sick beta fish, the old saying is true “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Knowing proper beta fish care can prevent most health problems but sometimes they come down with something anyway. Just like kids, we can’t protect them from everything no matter how hard we try. So with that in mind here are a few common beta fish illnesses and the symptoms to watch for:

Watch For These Common Signs Of Beta Fish Illness:

• Body of fish is shaking
• Fish is hiding in corners
• Fins aren’t normal
• Fish stays at top of bowl or tank gasping for air
• Fish keeps rubbing against tank decorations
• Abnormal swimming patterns
• Fish stays at bottom
• Fish is on its side

Beta Fish Parasite Problems:

• Ich – small white dots covering body
• Intestinal parasites – worms showing through vent
• Pop Eye – protruding eyes, can include a haze over them
• Velvet disease – gold or copper colored film on body

Beta Fish Diseases:

• Dropsy – swollen, boated body and eyes
• Fin Rot – ragged fins or inflamed rays
• Slime Disease – shaky swimming pattern and gray coating on body
• Swim Bladder Disease – strange swimming patterns

Beta Fish Conditions:

• Constipation – bloated body coupled with inactivity

The earlier you catch the symptoms the easier it will be to treat your beta – so don’t delay. You should be able to find treatments available at the pet store. If your beta fish is in a tank with other fish be sure to remove and isolate any sick fish, as many of these ailments are contagious.

Click here to see the “Betta Care Made Easy” book I use if I need to know any treatments. This way I don’t have to just trust the pet store personnel. Knowing how to give our little Sparkey the proper environment has gone a long way in preventing any illnesses in the first place.

Since hindsight is 20-20, I will share with you the 3 things I should have done…

1 – I should have got a book by someone who really knew about beta fish care. It turned out that they are not that expensive, and would have saved me money in the long run by not buying the wrong stuff.

2 – Then using my new knowledge, I should have made a plan to buy and set up the proper beta home and get all the supplies needed. Then come home and set it all up. I should have had everything ready first before we ever brought home the fish.

3 – Then, and only then, I should have taken Charlie and Jake to pick out a healthy beta to bring home. If I had been knowledgeable I would have known what to look for to get a healthy fish.

Here is a quick list of things to consider when picking out a new beta fish…

• Things you DON”T want to see: looks dull, fins have holes or tears, eyes appear cloudy, the scales have blemishes, the fish is lying near the bottom or on its side.

• Things you DO want to see: color brightness and clarity, dark clear eyes, and smooth looking scales. The fish should be lively with quick darting movements.

A happy beta will have bubbles on the water surface. If there are no bubbles at the store, this is okay because who would be happy in a little plain container anyway. Your job is to give your new little friend the care and attention and in no time you will be seeing plenty of happy bubbles.

1 – Protein – The beta fish is carnivore meaning it is a meat-eater. Protein is an essential part of its diet. An adult beta requires a minimum of 45% protein and up to 60% for adult fish preparing to breed.

2 – Fats – Approximately 8% of a beta’s diet should fat. Include polyunsaturated fats such as those found in brine shrimp. Saturated fats, such as those found in beef, can harm a beta’s digestive track. As in nature, a beta may have feasted on shrimp and worms but definitely was not designed to eat a cow.

3 – Fiber – Beta fish need fiber to aid in digestion. About 4% should do. Special note: if your beta becomes constipated you may need to increase the fiber content.

4 – Minerals – are needed for bodily functions. A good mix would be calcium, copper, iron, iodine, magnesium, phosphorous, potassium, sodium, zinc which are normally found in bone and meat products.

5 – Vitamins – aid in proper growth, digestion, healthy bones, scales and metabolism. A beta requires at least vitamins A, D3, E, K, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B12, C, H and M.

If this all seems a little overwhelming, never fear. You can easily give your little friend all it needs by following a few simple beta fish feeding tips. Choose a good flake or pellet food that meets the vitamin and mineral requirements to feed daily. Be sure to check the label for nutritional information. Then feed live or freeze-dried worms or shrimp a couple of times a week. By including some variety when feeding beta fish you will be providing proper nutrition that will result in a happy, healthy little fish.

Most Important: Never Overfeed Your Beta. This will also help maintain better water quality, which can also affect your beta’s health.

Anyway, here are our “Top Ten Tips For A Happy, Healthy Beta Fish!”

1. The bowl or tank size should be big enough, shallow enough and contain non-toxic aquarium approved gravel or rocks and live or plastic plants for hiding.

2. The temperature should be kept at 75 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

3. The water should be distilled or properly treated tap water. Be sure the PH is 6.8 to 7 and check the chemical balances often.

4. The water should be kept fairly still. Strong aquarium filters or air pumps may create too much water movement and stress out or injure your beta.

5. Change part of the water often. New water to be added should be made in advance so it can be treated properly and the temperatures match.

6. Practice tank cycling and keep enough of the old water to preserve the good bacteria that helps keep your beta’s environment healthy.

7. Feed your beta fish the right foods to help its little body function properly. And don’t overfeed.

8. Provide the proper lighting. Live plants need light. Too much light can cause excessive algae growth.

9. The bowl or tank should be kept clean without using soaps or chemicals.

10. Never add fish that aren’t compatible, especially another male beta. They are not known as the Siamese Fighting Fish for nothing.

As we’ve had it to do over again, we found an “ounce of prevention really is worth a pound of cure.” Learning about beta fish care was definitely worth it. Knowledge can prevent beta fish diseases. We could have saved ourselves a lot of time, money, and heartache if we’d known all this stuff with our first beta, Boo. Anyway, we know now and our Sparkey is a happy, healthy little guy.